Built to Cruise is up for Sale

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It’s time to clear our the Stable of our last project ‘Built to Cruise’.  We have more projects in the pipeline and this Pony needs a new home.  For all the details on the car and the build please follow the links below.




Coyote Swap Idle Issue Fix (Official)

After several months of jumping through different tunes, tuners and solutions, we finally have applied a Ford Racing fix that they have come up with to address the Idle issues of the Coyote swap that many are seeing.  After doing the following, the BTC project is running the stock Ford Racing tune and the drivability is stock as can be and perfect.  All idle issues have been resolved and the car just ‘works’ now!

Basically the fix consists of taking a OSS signal from your transmission, converting the signal using a Speed Dial and sending it to the main PCM.

I have attached a work sheet that shows you the proper wiring and parts needed for the ‘fix’.

M-6017-A504V OSS Hookup

We had to run an additional 2 wires from under the dash out through the firewall and to the PCM we have mounted under the passenger side fender.  We put the speed cal up under the gauge cluster.  We already had wires under the dash going to the OSS on the TKO-500.  Their worksheet specs out which OSS units to use, our TKO had the correct sending unit so we did not have to replace.  The OSS was going to the Autometer electronic speedometer and still is but a bit differently.  Originally one side of the OSS was going to ground to make the speedo work but the diagram needs the negative side going to a pin on the PCM.

How we have it Wired…

  1. One side of the OSS off the tranny going to the green wire on the Speed Dial.  We also tapped this same wire and have that OSS signal going to the Speedo and you just calibrate it independently, do not count on the speed dial other side to give you correct ratio.
  2. White Wire on the Speed Dial going to T-14 on the PCM
  3. Other side of OSS on the tranny going to T-38 on the PCM
  4. Red Wire on Speed Dial going to Ignition ACC.
  5. Black Wire on Speed Dial going to body ground.
  6. Set DIP switches on Speed Dial to 1-1-1

What you need

When inserting the Pins into the PCM plug, first remove the white cap lock off the connector, just pry gently and it pops out of position (See picture above).  Use patience putting them in and when you solder them, make sure the thickness and profile are the same as the 18 gauge wire so they will insert properly.  We used a file to file down the solder where it was high in places.

Crank and boom!… It worked perfect for us and Im sure it will work perfect for you.





BTC Parts used List

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For a nearly complete list of parts we used on this project, please see the following link.



ISIS Powered ‘Push to Start’

ISIS Powered ‘Push to Start’

As mentioned earlier, we have installed the ISIS Intelligent Multiplex System (www.isispower.com) to manage all the power functions of our 89 Mustang.  We were basically able to remove all of the original factory wire harness…  we did however keep the pigtails and short harness for the front and rear lights, this made wiring them up a little faster.  Many more details to come in how we wired up our FOX but for now check out the cool feature you can use with the ISIS system, which is a true ‘push to start’ system, no key needed.  Basically the system handles the procedures.  When we depress the start button (hold it down), ISIS turns on the ignition (ACC), a power (positive) connection is made to the Ford Racing Control Pak ignition input wire, then ISIS waits 2 seconds, then it sends power to the starter wire connection on the control pak.  The car then turns over to crank.  Then once the car starts, we releasethe Start button and the car stays on and running.  To turn the car off, you simply depress the start button again, and ISIS kills the ignition signal to the control pak and it turns off the motor. Who needs keys!?  FYI – The ISIS comes with a key fob, if you depress the ‘Lock’ button, then all ignition and starter signals are locked and the car cannot be cranked, thus it cannot be hot wired…  sorry! 😛


BTC Update: Interior Painting and Trim


As part of the ‘Built to Cruise‘ project here at StangNet, restoration of the 1989 Mustang was in order.  We not only planned to convert the ‘Notch over to the new 2011 5.0 Coyote engine, but we wanted to give this 1989 a nice big refresh.  The car’s interior was originally Blue but any Mustangfan knows the rare and not often found Black interior is the way to go.  We wanted to document our adventure in converting this Notch over to having a black interior and share with you some of the techniques we learned along the way as well as where to find parts and what all products are needed to make it happen, in a ‘professional’ way so to speak.  Jump on over and follow along as we give a brief overview of the details and we also hope that this may help down the road when refreshing your FOX Mustang.  Article is over on our StangNet main blog.


BTC Black Interior

We converted a stock Blue cloth interior to all black with leather GT seats in the Mach1 style.  Shout out to TMI Products for them working with us to pull off a nice interior upgrade.  From TMI we have the Mach1 seats in Leather with all new foam, their new Coupe headliner and their awesome door panels with some of our own custom touches.  Half the interior hard plastic parts are originally in black purhcased from Prestige Mustang and the rest of the original parts were painted to match using some Late Model Restoration interior paint and some PPG Jet Black die.



BTC Water Overflow Setup

We chose not to go with a DE-Gas bottle setup as we wanted to keep the setup clean and also not have to plumb and make fit the oversized DE-Gas bottles. We went with the old school setup and made it easier to mate to the FOX style radiator and also kept the engine bay clean.  We have several miles on the car, in HOT weather, and have never really ever went anywhere near 200 degrees on water temp… she seems to stay steady at 185.

The setup:  We mounted a Canton overflow bottle on the passenger side fender liner panel.  On the engine, there is a water housing with a long silver nipple that sticks straight up in the air.  We believe this to be the ‘fill’ point when the cars are at the factory, this way they can pressure fill the system.  This is also the highest point on the engine and perfect for the vent area.  From this nipple we ran some water hose to the bottom fitting on the reservoir.  Then the larger open nipple pointing at the radiator at the water housing connection we just capped this off, this is the connection for the DE-Gas bottle which we do not need.  Then since our reservoir radiator cap is higher than the radiator cap, we designed this setup for it to be the cap that would vent.  We used a 16lb cap on the reservoir and then a 19lb cap on the radiator, which really could just be a non-vented cap but we chose a ‘just in case’ option for it to spill over.  Then from both overflow nipples, we just ran water hose from that and down and out hidden to spill through the frame if overflow occurred.

See the noted images for help.

BTC Ford Racing Autometer gauge cluster


BTC Water Temp Sending Setup

On the heater hoses.  This was easier than expected.  Just order you a set of factory 2011 5.0 hoses from a Ford parts source as the engine side connectors are quick connecters and the ends are not nippled for regular hose and clamps.  Then on the passenger side hose you can cut it off at the FOX location and secure it to the heater core input side. The sizes are the same.  Then on the driver side, we cut it off after its factory bend turned the corner behind the intake near the fire wall, then used a 5/8 hose adaptor/conector to connect it to a piece of 5/8 hose with a 90 degree end on it.  We picked this up from a local parts house.  Just ask to look at their hose rack in the back and find a 90 degree piece and measure to make sure it is a 5/8 size then you trim to fit and mount it to the return outlet on the heater core with the 90 degree end on the heater core and turning back to behind the intake.  Easy peasy.


2011 Heater Hose Part #s

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